5 Days in the Rockies with Patrick Cooke
In March, I had the opportunity to climb with Rob Owens of Rockies Ice Specialists for 5 days. I came into the week hoping to improve my technique on steep ice and mixed terrain, all while experiencing the different areas of the Canadian Rockies. After five straight days of climbing in five distinct regions, I left Canmore disappointed that I did not have more time to climb and invigorated not only to return, but to push my climbing to new levels.
Our first day out was spent at the Bear Spirit Crag outside of Banff, Alberta. This day served as a tune-up for the days to come and an opportunity to get systems dialed that would be necessary for longer multi-pitch routes. Being from the east coast (NY), the ice was very similar to what I’ve become used to climbing, with short, steep ice. The huge difference, however, were the bolted mixed lines at the crag. Although I’d followed some mixed lines before in the Adirondacks and White Mountains, the bolted lines (Woody – M7, and No Love – M7) on steep, clean rock offered a new experience. After dialing my technique on the ice and getting worked on the rock, I was ready for the four days to come.
On our second day out, we climbed SuperBock, a 3 pitch WI5 just outside of the town of Field, British Columbia. SuperBock was the first WI5 I’d climbed that was more than a single pitch in length. It offered spectacular views of the surrounding peaks and a challenging route, especially after getting worked the day before on the mixed lines at Bear Spirit Crag. We capped off the day with possibly the richest brownies known to man, courtesy of a bakery in Field and figured on hitting the Ghost the following day.
The following day, Rob and I entered the Ghost Wilderness to climb Malignant Mushroom (WI5) and Wicked Wanda (WI4+). These two climbs, on opposite sides of the south Ghost valley, offered very different types of ice and different objective hazards. Malignant Mushroom faces south and receives a lot of sun, leading to soft ice and the potential for significant rock fall. Climbing early in the morning yielded good conditions with solid ice that took full 16cm screws. Wicked Wanda, which faces north, receives little to no direct sun throughout much of the winter. As such, the ice was extremely hard and brittle, making it more important not to over-drive one’s tools, thereby dislodging ice that would be likely to dinner plate. After SuperBock the day before, I felt more comfortable in my abilities to climb steep ice, and thoroughly enjoyed the steep, featured ice on Malignant Mushroom and the smooth-as-glass ice of Wicked Wanda. My introduction to the Ghost also included plenty of walking in my not-quite dry boots (Unfortunately the Canmore Clubhouse has no real place to effectively dry gear), which led to some blisters on my heels.
Our fourth day took us to one of the most popular pieces of ice in the region, Louise Falls (WI5). The original plan was for me to lead the lower sections of Louise Falls, with Rob leading the crux pillar, but the blisters on my feet were really hurting so I decided to let discretion get the better part of valor. We cruised up the falls, sharing the ice with one other party, and countless tourists on the lake below. After climbing the falls, we spent time on a single-pitch traditional mixed route to the immediate right of the falls, as well as thin ice smears even further to climbers’ right. Unfortunately, at this point my feet were really beginning to hurt, calling into question whether we’d be able to continue with our plan to tackle Polar Circus the next day. Ultimately I decided Polar Circus could wait, and we went back to Canmore for the night, figuring I could get my double boots from my locker at the clubhouse, hopefully helping my feet, and then make an early departure for the Weeping Wall instead.
After an early morning fueled by Tim Horton’s, we made our way to the Weeping Wall along the Icefields Parkway. We were originally the only party and had our pick of lines, opting for a line just right of center, but left of the right hand line. This line followed good ice up the entirety of the climb, making for easy protection with little objective hazard from rock fall or icefall. The change in footwear made a huge difference on my feet, and I didn’t even feel the blisters. Rocking the Spantiks in weather hovering around freezing, I undoubtedly had the warmest feet in the Rockies!
After 5 days sampling the best of the Rockies, I felt like I could stay for the rest of the winter! Climbing with Rob was an absolute pleasure, and my climbing improved immensely in the short time we climbed together. These 5 days capped off a great ice season for me in which I got out 30 days overall, and I’m hoping to return next winter to try even longer steeper lines. Nemesis anyone?
